Hydraulic actuated sewing machine



Nov. 18, 1958 A. w. ORR

HYDRAULIC ACTUATED SEWING MACHINE 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed May 24, 1955 4A Bi 5 INVENTOR. Audre W. Or Y Z Nov. 18, 1958 w, R 2,860,590

HYDRAULIC ACTUATED SEWING MACHINE Filed May 24. 1955 EFEJJE w 240 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IE L' 7 T 1:4 /70 I72 54 Z 242 7 49 I82 23 I58 6 246' 24! 222 o 180 I: 250 22 308 30%- uvmvrm 290 Q88 I l Audfie v O 62 E l: 1 By 3 United States Patent 2,860,590 HYDRAULIC ACTUATED SEWING MACHINE Audrey W. Orr, WestporL'Conn. Application May 24, 1955, Serial No. 510,731

4 Claims. (Cl. 112- 174) This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines and the like. i 1

An object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved sewing machine and the like, which is particularly useful in connection with the manufacture of neckties and the like.

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved sewing machine of the character described, in which special types of longitudinal necktie assembly loose stitches may be made in one rapid, continuous pass of the needle, while the fabric remains stationary, the entire stitch forming operation being thus completed upon one forward motion or pass of the needle, and the consequent retraction of the needle to the initial position.

A further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved necktie sewing. machine which forms the characteristic loose longitudinal necktie assembly stitch or the like, by a single pass of the special elongated threaded needle through the necktie fabric elements, such as the outer necktie fabric and the necktie liner to be thus assembled, means being provided for forming the fabric elements into a series of successive undulations or crimps, the fabric being gently but firmlypressed into hollow shaped recesses by crimping elements and held in such formed undulations while the needle passes therethrough, so that at the moment of stitching, the fabric section being stitched is stationary, automatic rneans being provided for moving the crimping element into and out of position as the necktie sewing needle moves forward on its needle carrier or support.

Still a further object of the invention is to providea novel and improved necktie sewing machine of the character described, in which the power for moving the needle carrier and for actuating the various crimping elements, is produced by hydraulic means, including a hydraulic cylinder with piston type actuator movable therein, and coupled to the various movable elements of the machine for actuating the same.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved hydraulically actuated necktie sewing machine, in which there is a plurality of crimper elements adapted for limited extension motion into and out of engagement with the hollow crimper bar recesses on the stationary crimper bar, the machine including a cam which moves with the needle carrier, so as to gently crimp the necktie fabric elements into and out of engagement with the recesses of the crimper bar in successive undulations, one undulation being formed after the other, rather than trying to form them all at once, and avoiding unduly stretching or deforming the fabric being worked upon.

Still a further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved form of actuating and control means so that the entire operation iscarried out without the need for intervening control by the operator, so that the operator has both hands free to guide the fabric while the seam is being completed, and the work is automati-v 2,860,590 Patented Nov. 18, 1958 cally released when the end of the rearward motion is reached.

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved necktie sewing machine which is simple in design, inexpensive to manufacture, contains a minimum of parts, and is readily maintained in operating condition, all parts being quite rugged and capable of withstanding considerable wear and tear.

A further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved necktie stitching machine of the character described, which is relatively compact, and will fit into a small floor space, little more than an ordinary sewing machine, and thus allows it to be installed in any shop, either singly, for a small operation, or in multiples, for a large operation, being very economical in use of floor space. 1

Still another object of the invention is to provide a machine of the type described, which may be operated by relatively unskilled and inexperienced labor, thus eliminating any need for a long apprenticeship, and avoiding the consequent spoilage of work and wastage of time and materials.

Still a further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved machine for quickly and easily forming a necktie stitch of the loose stitch type as taught by U. S. Patents 1,447,090 and 1,448,453, issued to Jesse Langsdorf in 1923, to which reference is made for details of such construction, particularly for joining the necktie outer fabric or body and the lining together by a continuous thread loosely engaging both, and knotted at both ends. i

This application is a continuation-in-part of my copending patent application, Serial No. 424,657, filed April 21, 1954, for Sewing Machine, to which reference is made for description and illustration of parts not shown in detail herein and the entire description and illustration of said application being incorporated herein by reference thereto. X

The present and other objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following description of a preferred embodiment thereof, as illustrated in the accompanying drawings, forming apart hereof, and in which, i

Figure 1 is a partly broken out elevational viewshowing the main hydraulic cylinder connected to the hydraulic fluid reservoir, and regulating controls associated therewith, in fragment.

Figure 2 is a front elevational view showing the hydraulic actuator cylinder in the housing supporting the same, some of the movable crimper members being shown in lower positions the view being partly a broken out sectional elevation on the axis of the hydraulic cylinder.

Figure 3 is a fragmentary sectional elevational view taken substantially on plane 33 of Figure 2.

Figure 4 is a right end elevational view of the device shown in Figure 5, and similarly of the device shown in Figure 2, the crimpers not being shown.

Figure 5 is a sectional plan view in fragment, of the device shown in Figure 2, taken substantially on plane 5--5 of Figure 2, the crimpers being omitted.

Figure 6 is a fragmentary sectional elevational view of the slide valve mechanism shown in the hydraulic fluid pump reservoir housing of Figure 1.

Figure 7 is a left end elevational view of the slide valve mechanism shown in Figure 6. i

Figure 8 is a top plan view of the slide valve device shown in Figure 6, the view being partly broken out to show its construction.

Figure 9 is a sectional elevational view taken substantially on plane 99 of Figure 12, and showing the right side wall of the cam carrying housing shown in Figure 11.

3 Figure is a fragmentary top plan view taken substantially on viewing plane 10-10 of Figures 11 and 12, and showing the left side wall of the cam carrying housin seen in Figure 11, with its pivot post support.

Figure 11 is a left end elevational view of the needle and cam carrying housing shown in Figure 12.

Figure 12 is a fragmentary right side elevational view of the cam and needle carrying housing shown in Figure 11, this being actually a frontal view as taken from the operators side of the machine, the view being partly in sectional elevational view taken through the axis of the hydraulic piston rod, and showing the general contour of the cams.

Figure 13 is a transverse sectional elevational view taken substantially on plane 99 of Figure 12, and showing the left housing wall and pivot post shelf of the device shown in Figure 11 at the left side of Figure ll.

Figure 14 is a sectional elevational view of a one way metering valve which may be installed in the fluid line to the working endof the actuator cylinder to limit the speed of the work stroke.

As shown, there is a main hydraulic actuator cylinder 20, with first and second cylinder heads 22 and 24 secured at the opposite ends of the cylinder 20, by any suitable means, to form an enclosed cylindrical passage in which the hydraulic actuator piston 26 is axially movable. A hydraulic actuator piston shaft 28 has its right- Ward end extending through an opening 30 formed through the piston, which shaft end is reduced as at 32 in Figure 2, to allow the nuts 34 on the rightwardmost end of the piston s'haft to be tightened to hold the piston securely on the shaft 28. Suitable gaskets or piston rings 36 are provided 'in annular grooves on the piston surface, to block leakage of hydraulic fluid therepast substantially. The piston shaft 28 extends slidably through an opening 38 in the cylinder head 22, as seen in Figures 1, 2 and 5, the opening being provided With a threaded bushing or nut 40 confining a gland packing or gasket 42 to block leakage of hydraulic fluid from the cylinder as the piston under oes movement.

Suitable lateral bracing walls such as at 46 and 48 may be provided with circular openings 50 to receive the hydraulic cylinder 20, and may be provided with first and second side Walls 52 and 54 secured in mutually spaced relationship to the bracing partitions 46 and 48, etc., by means of screws 56, and may also have openings in their lower edges as seen in Figures 2, 3 and 4, at 58, to receive screws to fasten them in the positions shown on a main frame or housing floor 60.

As seen best in Figures 1, 2, 4 and 5, hydraulic fluid cured in said opening 29 by fixed collars or nuts 35 threaded onto the shaft 28 for movement therewith. From Figures 11 and 12 it is seen that the upper cam channel spacer 33 extends sidewise in the manner of Figure 11, for secure engagement with the side walls connected at their upper ends with the opposite ends of I the hydraulic cylinder 20, by means of openings or passageways or ports 66 and 68 formed through the cylinder heads 22 and 24 respectively, and thus serve to conduct hydraulic fluid or oil into the cylinder at either side of the piston, so that as the fluid is admitted on the left side of the piston as seen in Figures 2 and 5, the piston is pushed or moved to the right, carrying with it the actuator shaft 28, and similarly, is pushed to the left when the fluid is admitted to the cylinder through pipe 64.

Referring now to Figures 1, 6, 7 and 8, it is seen that the machine is provided with a hydraulic fluid reservoir and pumping housing 70, which may be formed in any suitable manner, such as with a floor wall 72, four upstanding side walls 74, and a top or closure Wall 76, secured together in any; suitable'manner, and defining a chamber 78 therein. An electric motor 80, mounted by flanges 82 on the roof 76 of the reservoir 70, has its shaft 84 extending downwardly inside the sump or chamber 78, with a rotary centrifugal or other pump 86 mounted on the lower end of the shaft for pumping hydraulic fluid 88 from the chamber 78 up through standpipe 90 and alternately into either of the fluid delivery pipes 62 37a and 37b of the cam bars or walls, being secured thereto by means of screws 39. From Figure 11 it is also seen that the screws also extend through the cam carrier channels or Walls 41 and 43, as do the screws 39b, thus securing the walls 41 and 43 securely to the outside of the cam bars 37a and 37b, somewhat in the manner of cover plates, serving to cover the outer surfaces of the cam bars, and thus retain the rollers 47 in the cam grooves 49 or tracks. This is also seen clearly in Figures 2 and 3, which show the side by side arrangement of the various walls mentioned, and the rollers 47 moving in their cam grooves 49.

The cam rollers 47 are in turn carried rotatably on small st-ub Shafts or pins 51 pressed or otherwise securely fitted into sockets or holes 53 in the legs and 102 of the crimper members 104, so that the crimper members 104 move with their pins 51 and cam rollers 47 in a vertical direction as the cam bars 37a and 37b move along from left to right and back again, the curvature of the cam grooves 49 thus serving to elevate or lower the crimper members 104 accordingly.

Looking again at Figures 11 and 12 it is seen that there is a lower cam channel spacer member 110, the web 112 of which extends across the intervening space b..- tween the cam bars 37a and 37b, being secured thereto by means of screws 39c extending through the cam bars and the flanges 114 of the spacer ,Thus, as seen best in Figure 11, it is seen that the needle carrier member 33, the lower cam channel spacer member 110, the cam bars 37a and 37b, and the cam carrier channels or walls 41 and 43 form a rigid assembly movable together with the piston 26 and the hydraulic shaft 28. The needle carrier 33 has an upward extension integral there-v with, preferably, with a slot 122 formed therein to upwardly bifurcate the same, thus providing a clamp recess 124 suitably curved to fit the base end of a sewing needle 126 of substantial length, the eye of the needle being seen at its rightward end 128. Hence it is understood that the movement of the piston 26 in the hydraulic cylinder 20 causes corresponding movement of the needle 126, and the cam grooves 49, relative to the longitudinallv stationary but vertically movable crimper members 104. Such movement of the cams hence must cause vertical elevation or lowering motion of the crimper members 104, depending upon the particular portion of the cam grooves 49 with which any particular crimper members rollers 47 are engaged with at that particular time.

From Figures 2, 3 and 4, it is seen that the screws 58 extend through the base floor 60, which is relatively stationary, and extend threadedly upwardly through the walls 46, 48 and 24, holding the walls 46, 48 and 24, and the hydraulic cylinder 20 relatively stationary in rcspect to the main frame of the machine. The crimper members 104 are constrained into only vertical up and downward movement, as the cam grooves 49 are moved to the right or left. The right or left movement of the cam grooves 49 is in unison with the movement of the piston 26, cam groove walls 37a and 37b, the needle carrier 33, and the needle 126 itself, all moving together.

Since there are a great many of the crimper members 104, placed next to each other in sequential side by side relationship, longitudinally of the cam grooves, each crimper member having its own rollers 47 engaging the cans grooves 49, it is apparent that due to the curvature of the cam grooves, as indicated in Figure 12, the rightward movement of the cam grooves will cause the sequential elevation of the crimper-members 104 as they encounter the lower right portion 130 of the cam grooves 49 as seen in Figure 12, and must continue their upward motion asthey ride up on the cam grooves 49 along incline 132, and then up onto the leveling outportion 134 of the cam grooves, at which they attain their highest elevation. It will be understood that the length of the leveling out portion 134 of the cam grooves 49 is such as to accommodate all the crimper members thereon, so that all crimper members will be at their highest elevation when the needle carrier 120 has moved all the way to the'right as seen inFigures land 12.

Similarly, when the needle carrier 120, with its needle 126 has been retracted all the way to the left as seen in Figures 1 and 12, all the crimper members 104 will have run down along the lower portion 130 of the track or cam grooves 49, and off thereof, out of engagement with the track 49, so that all crimper members 104 will be at their lowermost positions. Thus the extension or sewing stroke of the needle 126 by its rightward motion as seen in Figures 1 and 12, will be so arranged that the eye.128 of the sewing needle, carrying its sewing thread engaged in the eye, will not reach eachof the particular crimpers 104 until that crimper is at its highest elevation, as positioned by riding up on the leveling out portion 134 of the cam grooves or tracks 49, so that the crimper is already at its highest elevation just before the needle eye. enters the groove 105 in the crimper 104, shown in Figure 3. Similarly, the arrangement of'the cam tracks 49is such that as the needle is retracted to the left out of engagement successively with the crimpers 104, the eye 128 of the needle will move leftwardly out of the groove 105 of the crimper 104 before the crimper 104 will commence its downward motion riding on the camtracks 49.

Whenthe crimpers 104 are in their uppermost or extended sewing positions, shown in Figure 3, they will have their upper convergent ,ends 107 extending into the spaces between adjacent teeth of the crimper bar 109 which is stationary, and pressing the ,fabric layers 111 and 113 of necktie body fabric and liner respectively into undulations held securely while the threaded needle eye 128 passes through the undulated fabrics and thus forms the typical loose or basting type stitch which secures the necktie body toits lining, with a knot at each end tied by the operator, so that the longestnecktie life is obtained as mentioned further in detail hereinbelow by reference to the patent teaching this form of necktie stitching. These are Jesse Langsdorf U. i S. Patents 1,447,090, and 1,448,453, issued in 1923. When the needle 128 has moved all the way to the right, thus carrying the thread through all the undulations of the combined necktie body and liner, the operator may grasp the rightward end of the thread from the needle alongwith the fabrics and hold same while the needle and cam assembly retracts to its leftwardmost position and the crimpers are returned to their lowermost position, this then releasing the fabric from the fabric clamp and the fabrics with the stitches completed are pulled rightwardly leaving sufficient thread for properly knotting. The thread is then cut, leaving sufficient thread remaining through the eye of the needle to prevent it becoming unthreaded at the beginning of the scam in the next piece of work, the end of the thread being thrown back over the rear portion of the table top while the fabrics for the next piece of work are loaded in the machine in sewing position. It is thus seen that the actual stitch is formed during the retraction stroke of the needle, the end knots being then tied in the manner of the two patents mentioned to leave the liner and necktie body loosely stitchably interconnected intermediate said end knots. t

It is understoodthat suitable clamps may be used for grasping one end of the combined necktie body and liner at their left, end, to hold them as they are successively; progressivelycrimped prior to passage of the needle therethrough, as taught by my copending patent application,-

tion by means of a slide valve mechanism, to conductively connect the pump delivery or riser to the pipes 62 or.

64, depending upon the direction of movement which the piston 26, andthe needle carrier 33 coupled directly thereto are to undergo. From Figures 1, 2 and 12, it is clear the feeding pressurized hydraulic fluid 88 from pipe 90 through pipe 62 will push the piston 26, and the needle 128 to the right in a sewing stroke, and that feeding fluid 88 through pipe 64 will push the piston 26 and the needle 128 to the left, in a retraction stroke out of the crimped fabrics. In order to shift the feed of fluid between pipes 62 and 64, I provide a slide valve housing 150, having a back plate 152 which may be secured by screws 154 to the walls or one wall such as 76 of fluid reservoir 70.

An upper slide valve block or wall member 156 with top and bottom edges 158 and 160 is secured by screws 162 to the back plate 152, as seen in Figures 6, 7 and 8,

with its left and right end edges 164 and 166 disposed in spaced relationship to the left and right edges of the back plate 152. A vertical duct bore 168 is formed through the central portion of the upper slide valve block 156, so

as to open upwardly upon the fluid baflle member 170 or canopy secured thereabove by screws 172 to the back plate 152. Thus any fluid squirting or discharged upwardly out of bore 168 is impinged against the canopy 170, and returns downwardly into the reservoir 78.

A lower slide valve block or wall member 174, similar in thickness, width and heightto the upper slide valve block 156, is secured by screws 176 to the back plate 152 below and in spaced relationship parallel to the upper block 156, with its end edges similarly oriented relative to the back plate. There is thus formed between upper and lower slide valve blocks 156 and 174, a slide valve passageway 180 in which the slide valve plunger 182 is longitudinally movable from left to right and vice versa as seen in Figures 6 and 8.

There is an outer placed against the rightward faces of the two valve blocks .156 and 174 as seen in Figure 7, so as to also overlie the intervening valve plunger pasageway 180 in which the valve plunger 182 slides reciprocally, thus confining the valve plunger 182 in its passageway. This face plate 184 is secured in place by the same screws 162 and 176 which hold the valve blocks 156 and 176 against the rear plate 152 of the valve housing. From Figures 6 and 7, it is seen that the delivery pipe 90 which in Figure 1 was seen to deliver the pressurized fluid from pump 86, has its upper end connected with a fluid delivery port 190, formed through lower valve block 174, and opening at rest position, upon the fluid receiving chamber 192 formed in slide valve plunger 182, shown in Figure 6. A communicating duct 194 affords communication between chamber 192 and discharge duct 168, so that when they are in registry as seen in the view, the fluid pumped through pipe 90 is discharged upwardly and out of relief duct 168 and back into the reservoir chamber 78.

From Figure 6 is is also seen that the fluid ducts or pipes 62 and 64, shown also in Figure 1, have their lower.

ends opening upon delivery ports 196 and 198 formed through the lower slide valve block 174 in the manner shown in Figure 6. It is thus clear that since the vestibule 192 in the slide valve plunger 182 is made of suitable longitudinal width as seen in Figure 6 to permit full communication therethrough between pipe 90 and one or the other port 196 or 198 at a time, as the valve plunger moves to right or left of its rest position shown in Figure 6. When the valve plunger 182 moves to the left, comcover plate 184 which is munication is eflected between duct 90 and delivery pipe 62 by vertibule 192, and fluid is pumped through pipe 62 in the direction of arrow 20.0, into the cylinder 20, pushing the piston 26 to the right as seen in Figures 1, 2 and 5, thus carrying the piston shaft 28 and the needle 126 to the right in the sewing stroke, as described hereinabove, the cams 49 also moving therewith.

The movement of the slide valve plunger 182 to the left as seen in Figure 6, has also moved the right hand end of the plunger 182 to a position wholly to the left of fluid port 198, allowing the fluid which is in the cylinder to the right of the piston 26, as seen in Figures 1, 2 and 5, to be pushed out through pipe 64, port 198 of Figure 6, and out through the right hand portion of passage 180, to return to the reservoir chamber 78 as shown by arrows 204 in Figure 6. Similarly, when the slide valve plunger 182 has been moved to the right to have vestibule 192 interconnect ports 190 and 198, fluid is delivered from pipe 90- through pipe 64 in the direction of arrow 208 in Figure 6, into cylinder 20 to the right of piston 26 and thus pushes it back to the left, carrying with it the needle 126 and the cam tracks 49. In such event, the port 196 being uncovered, allows returning fluid from the left end of cylinder 20 to be discharged through port 196 and space 210, into the reservoir chamber 78.

Bleeder valves 220 may be installed at each end of the hydraulic actuator cylinder as shown in Figure l, to facilitate expelling any air after assembly, or air pockets which might accumulate therein from any cause, the valves being normally closed. As seen in Figures 6, 7 and 8, extension shafts 222 and 223 are threaded at their inner ends, as seen best in Figure 6, into the left and right ends respectively of the slide valve plunger 182, so as to be movable with the plunger, the unthreaded portions of the extension shafts being slidably movable through guidebushings 224 and 226 threaded into openings formed in the bushing support brackets 228 and 230 which are secured by screws 232 to the backing plate 152. As seen in Figure 6, there are a pair of centering bias springs 234 encircling each shaft 222 and 223, so as to tend to return the slide valve plunger 182 to its central or rest position shown in Figure 6, quickly, when the plunger is no longer under displacing bias. As also seen in Figure 6, movement of the valve plunger 182 is accomplished by the operator through actuating a pedal or other lever, to move connecting rod 240 to the right or left as indicated by arrow 242, the rod 240 corresponding to connecting rod 324 shown in applicants co-pending patent application Serial Number 424,657, in Figure 3 thereof, to which reference is made for further details of a suitable pedal operated linkage for actuating the connecting rod as mentioned, and for other details of construction not shown fully herein. A bell crank lever 244 is pivotally mounted on a fixed pivot 246 carried by the back plate 152, and is pivotally interconnected to con necting rod 240 at, pivot 248 and to the right end of shaft 223 at pivot 250. Thus a pull of connecting rod 240 to the right as seen in Figure 6, will move the slide valve plunger 182 to the left, interconnecting pipes 90 and 62, and pushing piston 26 of Figure l to the right, together with the needle 126 in the sewing stroke, moving also the cam tracks 49, and elevating successively each of the crimper members 104 just before the needle eye 128 reaches them. Similarly, when the operator moves connecting rod 240 to the left as seen in Figure 6, this moves slide valve plunger 182 to the right, interconnecting pipes 90 and 64, and pushing the piston 26 to the left as seen in Figure l, which retracts the needle 126 to the left as seen in Figure 1, together with the cam tracks 49, and causes the crimpers 104 to move downwardly progressively after the needle eye 128 has moved to the left of each such crimper.

As shown in Figure 8, in order to stabilize further, the centralizing at neutral or rest position of the slide valve plunger 182, a ball 252'is pressed by spring 254 against the side surface of'the slide valve plunger 182, the surface of which is provided at the neutral or center position with a small depression or socket to receive the ball stop 252. The'cylindricalhousing 256 is threaded into the face plate 184, and thus serves to contain the ball and spring 254. Such center stabilization is also aided by balancing the-bias of the two springs 234 by adjustment of their bias on turning of nuts 224 and 226 for balance.

Referring now to Figure 6, it is seen that there is a pressure relief valvehousingat 260, extending outwardly from fluid delivery pipe 90, and provided with a bore containing a ball valve 262 pressed into its seat by the spring 264, the pressure exerted'by the spring being regulated by adjustment of the screw 266, and maintained by lock nut 268. When the fluid pressure in-pipe exceeds the predetermined adjustedpressure set as needed for suitableoperation of the hydraulic cylinder, 20, then the excess pressure pushes the ball check 262 to the right as seen in Figure 6, unblocking the relief outlet opening 270, and thus allowing fluid to-leak out through opening'270 and be bypassed back into the reservoir.

Control of the speed of advance and return of the needle 124 and 126' may be achieved by varying the degree to which the connecting rod'240 is moved from its rest position, since this will allow more or less pumped fluid from pipe 90 to flow through the ducts 62 or 64, depending upon whether pipe 90 is fully open to said duct 62 or 64, or only partially. However, in order to obtain a speed regulated sewing stroke of the needle,

together with a quick return stroke of the needle to theleft, I may provide further control shown in the form of the two way speedregulating valve 280, shown generally in Figure l, and in sectional elevational view in Figure 14. This valve 280. has a housing 282 with an axial bore 284. A positioning pin 286 is threaded into the lower part of the bore 284, being reduced at 288 to allowfluid flow therearound at the level of fluid port- 290, and further reduced above section 288 to form a shoulder for supporting the valve washer 292, which is pressed down thereupon resiliently by the spring 294, the spring pressure being adjustable by turning the hollow retaining cap or plug 296 threaded into the top of bore 284.

Since the conical washer 292 is slidable on pin extension 298 down to the shoulder supporting it, it is seen that when fluid enters through pipe 62 in the direction of arrow 300 in Figure 14, then this being the leftward stroke of the piston 26 and hence of the needle 126, the pressure of fluid under washer 292 lifts it upand allows the fluid to flow past the valve seat of washer 292 and out through port 302 and pipe 62a to the reservoir, thus giving a fast needle return stroke to the left. However, when the flow of fluid is to the left through the valve of Figure 14, that is, in the direction of the arrows 308 in that view, this being the power stroke of the needle to the right as seen in Figures 1 and 12, then the speed of the stroke is easily regulated by adjustment of the screw 286, defining the amount of clearance normally to be had between the valve washer 292 and its seat, it being understood that there must be at least some degree of such clearance normally existing in order to have a power stroke of the needle at all when the valve of Figure 14 is used. This valve thus gives good adjustment of the speed of rightward movement of the needle.

Figures 10, 11 and 13 show the cam bar 37a, with its cam carrier channel 41 secured thereto, and showing the outwardly extending bracket or shelf 310 carried thereby for having threaded therein in hole 312 the cloth or fabric guide stud or post shown at 450 in Figures 11 and 10 of my said lcopending patent application, Serial ilar to theeorr'espondingcrimpers shown at 86 in my from those shown at 86 in said other patent application,

such as by elimination of the spring 120 by which in that application they weregiven downward bias. In the present constructiorguse' of the spring is avoided, by having the rollers of the crimpers move in cam slots or grooves, so that the upward and downward motion of the crimpers is effected in accordance with whichparticular portion of the cam slot a crimper is in engagement with at that moment. Also, as seen in Figures 2 and 3 of the present application, each of the crimper members 104 is provided with a leftward extension guard 320 as shown best in Figure 3, which extends outwardly and then has a downwardly extending guard arm or finger 322 of substantial length. Since the guard finger 322 always has its lower end below the level of the worktable out of which the crimpers move up and down, that is, below the surface of table 10 shown in Figures 3 and 5 of my said copending application, there is no possibility of the operator getting his fingers caught under arm 320 or being otherwise harmed by the crimpers. Looking at Figure 3, the crimper bar 109 corresponds to the crimper bar shown at 58 in my copending application 424,657 to which reference is made for further details of its construction including the spaced downwardly extending teeth 72 into the spaces between which the crimpers 104 fit when crimping the cloth layers therein for sewing.

Although I have described a preferred embodiment of my invention in specific terms, it will be understood that various changes may be made in size, shape, materials and arrangement without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as claimed.

I claim:

1. In a sewing machine which forms a loose longitudinal necktie assembly stitch by passage of an elongated threaded needle through the necktie fabric elements while the latter are being held in undulated form by a plurality of sequentially movable crimping members which releasably hold said elements against a complementary stationary crimping bar in response to movement of the needle carrier on its sewing stroke and until after its return stroke; a hydraulic actuator system adapted to cooperate with said needle carrier for actuating said needle and said crimping members comprising a main hydraulic cylinder affixable to said machine, a piston slidably disposed in said cylinder and having a shaft adapted for interconnecting said piston with said needle carrier for movement of the latter on sewing strokes and return strokes in response to said piston, first and second fluid ports at opposite end portions of said main cylinder, a fluid reservoir containing hydraulic fluid, pump means disposed within said reservoir and having an outlet for delivering hydraulic fluid under pressure therefrom, slide valve means affixed to said outlet, respective conduits interconnecting said slide valve means with said first and second fluid ports, said slide valve means reversibly shiftable from a first position in which said outlet is connected to said first port whereby said piston is moved axially in said cylinder by said hydraulic fluid on a sewing stroke, to a second position in which said outlet is connected to said second port whereby said piston moves in the opposite direction on a return stroke, and adjustable flow control valve means interposed in one of said conduits for obtaining full fluid pressure on the piston during the return stroke, and restricted controlled pressure thereon during the sewing stroke.

2. In a sewing machine which forms a loose longitudinal necktie assembly stitch by passage of an elongated threaded needle through the necktie fabric elements while the latter are being held in undulat'edf oin't by. a

plurality. of sequentially movable crimping membersi which releasably hold said elements against a complementary stationary crimping bar in response to movement of the needle carrier on its sewing stroke and until after its return stroke; a hydraulic actuator system adapted to,

cooperate with said needle carrier for actuating said needle and said crimping members comprising a main hydraulic, cylinder aflixable to said machine, a piston slidably disposed in said cylinder and having a shaft adapted for interconnecting said piston with said needle carrier for movement of the latter on sewing strokes and return strokes in response to said piston, first and second fluid ports at opposite end portions of said main cylinder, a fluid reservoir containing hydraulic fluid, pump means disposed within said reservoir and having an outlet for delivering hydraulic fluid under pressure therefrom, slide valve means atfixed to said outlet, respective conduits interconnecting said slide valve means with said first and second fluid ports, said slide valve means reversibly shiftable from a first position in which said outlet is connected to said first port whereby said piston is moved axially in said cylinder by said hydraulic fluid on a sewing stroke, to a second position in which said outlet is connected to said second port whereby said piston moves in the opposite direction on a return stroke, and adjustable flow control valve means interposed in one of said conduits for obtaining full fluid pressure on the piston during the return stroke, and restricted controlled pressure thereon during the sewing stroke, spring detent means on said slide valve means for releasably maintaining the latter in a position intermediate said first and second positions at which the hydraulic fluid is recycled to said reservoir without passing to either of said conduits.

3. In a sewing machine which forms a loose longitudinal necktie assembly stitch by passage of an elongated threaded needle through the n ecktie fabric elements while the latter are being held in undulated form by a plurality of sequentially movable crimping members which releasably hold said elements against a complementary stationary crimping bar in response to moveand return strokes in response to said piston, first and second fluid ports at opposite end portions of said main cylinder, a fluid reservoir containing hydraulic fluid, pump means disposed within said reservoir and having an outlet for delivering hydraulic fluid under pressure therefrom slide valve means aifixed to said outlet, respective conduits interconnecting said slide valve means with said first and second fluid ports, said slide valve means reversibly shiftable from a first position in which said outlet is connected to said first port whereby said piston is moved axially in said cylinder by said hydraulic fluid on a sewing stroke. to a second position in which said outlet is connected to said second port whereby said piston moves in the opposite direction on a return stroke, and adjustable flow control valve means interposed in one of said conduits for obtaining full fluid pressure on the piston during the return stroke, and restricted controlled pressure thereon during the sewing stroke, spring detent means on said slide, valve means for releasably maintaining the latter in a position intermediate said first and second positions at which the hydraulic fluid is recycled to said reservoir without passing to either of said conduits, and adjustable spring means aflixed to said slide valve means for biasing said slide valve means to said intermediate position.

4. In a necktie sewing machine which forms a loose longitudinal necktie assembly stitch by passage of an,

ment of the needle-carrier on its sewing stroke and until after its return stroke; a hydraulic actuator system adaptedto cooperate with said needle carrier for actuating said needle and said crimping members comprising a main hydraulic cylinder affixed to said machine and having a reciprocable piston therein adapted for interconnection With said needle carrier to provide the latter with sewing strokes and return strokes, a first and second fluid ports at opposite end portions of said cylinder, a fluid reservoir containing hydraulic fluid, pump means disposed Within said reservoir and having an outlet for delivering hydraulic fluid under pressure therefrom, a slide valve affixed to said outlet consisting of a housing, a plunger slidably disposed therein having first and second extension shafts at either end and having a centrally disposed fluid receiving chamber communicable with said outlet, first and second delivery ports in said housing interconnected with said first and second fluid ports respectively on said cylinder, said first extension shaft connected to foot pedal means for selectively positioning said plunger in said housing, respective spring means a relief duct in said housing communicating exterior thereof with said reservoir, a relief port in said plunger connected with said chamber and alignable with said relief duct at said central position of said plunger, where-' by the'fluidfrom'said pump outlet is returned directly to saidreservoir, spring detentmeans aifixed: to "said housing to releasably maintain said plunger in said central'position, said plunger reciprocably slidable between two "extreme positions, at one of which said chamber connects said pump outlet with said first delivery port thereby delivering fluid to one side of said piston and causing it tomove on a sewing stroke, and "at the other of said positions said chamberconnects said pump outlet withsaid second delivery port thereby delivering fluidto the other side of said piston and causing it to move on a return stroke, and fluid flow-control valve means interposed between said first port and said first delivery port to provide metered flow of said fluid to said cylin-i der-duringsaid sewing stroke, and free flow of said fluid from said cylinder during said return stroke.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent No., 2,860,590 November 18, 1958 Audrey W0 Orr It is hereby certified that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction and that the said Letters Patent should read as corrected below.

Column 6, line 65, for "is", first occurrence, read w it column 11, line 12, for "cylinder affixed" read cylinder affixable e Signed and sealed this 17th day of February 19590 SEAL) l ttestz KARL H, AXLINE ROBERT C. WATSON Attesting Oificer Commissioner of Patents 

